Boarding the Badger

I love the S.S. Badger. (Almost) everybody loves it.

The Badger at dock in Manitowoc.

Built when I was one year old, this is the last coal-fired passenger steamship in operation in the United States. I’ve ridden it several times. My first time, when it was still a railroad ferry, we stood on the deck at Manitowoc, WI, as a small locomotive shuffled boxcars in and out and back and forth into the lower hold, the ship listing hard to port and starboard and back again as they balanced out the load. At that time I believe there was an upper level below the passenger decks for cars, as there is now. But some vehicles had to be loaded onto the open stern of the ship. I had a 1980 heavy half-ton Dodge D100 pickup, a slant six with a four-speed overdrive stick. And a compact, but quite heavy, camper on the back. The loaders parked it crossways on the extreme of the stern. Watching my rig buck and rock in the strong headwinds crossing Lake Michigan, I was concerned that the whole thing might blow off and end up on the bottom of the big Lake. I hoped they had insurance. But all was good, and we drove home from Ludington, MI, 173 miles, in the dark, with a stiff headwind, me rowing between third and fourth and trying to keep our speed up to 55 or so.

Twice now I’ve returned home from the U.P. via Wisconsin and the Badger. It’s virtually straight south from Marquette, past Escanaba, and on to Manitowac. Then a relaxing and entertaining four-hour excursion. They no longer carry railroad cars, now they cater to tourists, travelers and truckers, with food, beer, liquor, bingo and trivia, and $5 wifi, along with a ship’s store and a even a double feature playing in the movie theater!. Here’s a clip from the dashcam of my car as it was loaded on for my most recent cruise in 2020. We were in the poll position, number one on the runway!

Everyone should cruise on this National Historic Landmark at least once!

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